The counter can feel like a black box. You hand over a chain, someone looks it over, and a number comes back. It seems like guesswork, but it isn’t. What gold buyers look for is a short, consistent list, and once you know it, the whole thing stops feeling mysterious. Here’s what we check, in order, before we make an offer.
First: is it gold, and how pure?
Every offer starts with confirming the metal. The quickest clue is the hallmark, a small stamp tucked on a clasp, an inner band, or the back of a pendant. Common ones are 10K, 14K, 585, and 750, which map to gold purity. A 925 stamp means sterling silver, not gold, and .999 can be either, so we never assume from the stamp alone.
Gold purity by karat
| Stamp | Karat | Gold content |
|---|---|---|
| 10K / 417 | 10K | 41.7% |
| 14K / 585 | 14K | 58.5% |
| 18K / 750 | 18K | 75% |
| 22K / 916 | 22K | 91.7% |
| 24K / 999 | 24K | 99.9% |
To be sure, we test. That might be a quick acid test on an unseen spot, or an XRF analyzer that reads the metal’s makeup without scratching the piece. We don’t rely on look or feel, and you shouldn’t either. Plenty of convincing-looking pieces are plated, and a good test settles it in seconds.
Then: weight and karat together
Once the metal is confirmed, weight and karat do the heavy lifting. Purity tells us how much of the piece is gold; weight tells us how much there is. A higher karat pays more per gram, but a heavier lower-karat piece can still come out ahead. If you want that math spelled out, our guide on 10K vs 14K vs 18K vs 24K gold covers it.
Condition and design, and when they matter
For most gold, condition barely moves the number. Scratches, kinks, and missing clasps don’t reduce the metal inside, so a beat-up chain and a pristine one of the same weight and karat land in the same place. This surprises people, in a good way.
Design matters in a narrower set of cases: an intact, signed designer piece, or an antique with real collector interest, can be worth more kept whole than melted. When we spot something like that, we say so rather than pricing it as scrap.
Stones and extras
If a piece has diamonds or gemstones, we price the metal and the stones separately. The gold is valued by weight and purity as usual, and the stones are judged on their own. Some carry real value, some very little, and we’ll tell you which is which. Watch parts, clasps, and non-gold backing get set aside so you’re paid for the gold that’s actually there.
Coins and collector demand
Gold coins are their own category. Beyond the metal, some coins carry a premium because collectors want them, and demand can lift certain pieces above melt value. Type, year, and condition all factor in, which is why coins get looked at differently than a broken chain.
Bars and bullion are a different case from scrap. Because their weight and purity are already stamped and standardized, they trade close to the day’s gold price with only a small margin, rather than the deeper melt discount that broken, mixed jewelry carries.
The one thing no buyer controls
The market. The spot price of gold sets the day’s baseline, and it moves. A fair buyer quotes against the current price and pays a share of the melt value, since refining and reselling cost money. Nobody is paying full spot for scrap, and anyone claiming to should raise an eyebrow.
How to make sure the offer is fair
You don’t need to be an expert to avoid a bad deal. A few habits do the work:
- Watch the weighing and testing happen. If it’s done out of sight, you can’t check anything.
- Ask how the offer breaks down: metal, stones, any premium. A straight answer is a good sign.
- Get a second quote when the amount matters. Offers vary, and comparing is smart, not rude.
- Stick with an established local buyer over a pop-up or a mail-in service you can’t ask questions.
That’s the whole reason we test and weigh in front of you and explain the number out loud. If you want to see how we quote, our cash for gold page lays it out, and how to sell gold in Boston walks through a full visit.
Every test and weighing happens right at the counter in both of our Dorchester stores, so you can watch the whole process in person before you decide.
Common questions
How can I sell my gold without getting ripped off?
Watch the weighing and testing, ask for the offer to be broken down, and get a second quote if the amount is meaningful. Choose an established buyer who tests in front of you instead of a pop-up or unseen mail-in service.
What percentage do gold buyers pay?
Buyers pay a share of the melt value rather than full spot, because gold has to be refined and resold. The exact share varies by buyer and overhead, which is one more reason a second quote helps.
Does my gold need to be clean or in good condition?
No. Scrap and broken gold is valued by weight and purity, so condition rarely changes the number. Cleaning is optional, and you never need the original box or receipt.