Sell Saws for Cash in Boston, MA

A photo of a saw sitting in its case tells us almost nothing. Model number plus an honest condition note is what turns a text into a usable estimate, and the plate is rarely where people look first.

• Where the plate hides - miter saws on the motor housing behind the belt cover, circular saws on the shoe, chainsaws on the powerhead near the bar studs.
• Full model string - DWS779, GCM12SD, XSL06 or TS 55; the trailing digits separate a sliding saw from a fixed-head one.
• Blade and arbor - say 7-1/4, 10 or 12 inch, and whether the blade currently on it is sharp, dull or missing.
• Power source - corded amperage, or the battery platform plus how many packs and what amp hours.
• Kit parts - rail, fence, throat plate, stand, hold-down clamp, bar cover, spare chain, case.

Lay it all out in one wide shot, then send a close-up of the plate so the digits read clearly.

Testing a saw takes a couple of minutes at the counter, with you standing there. We power it up and listen first, because a dry bearing or a tired armature is audible long before it is visible.

• Spin-up and brake - trigger, lock-off, run-down time, and whether the electric brake still stops the blade.
• Guard action - the lower guard on a circular saw has to snap closed on its own, not creep.
• Arbor and wobble - blade run-out checked by eye and by hand with the saw unplugged.
• Detents and fence - miter stops at 45 and 90 degrees, fence square, table insert in place.
• Chainsaw specifics - chain tension, bar wear, oiler output and how many pulls it takes to start.

Cordless saws also get run on a charged pack of ours, so a weak battery does not get blamed on the tool. You hear what the saw did on the bench before any number is discussed.